I don't think anything else looks quite like real Baltic amber. It just has this amazing history to it, holding onto the past for millions of years (sometimes with little bugs inside!). Unfortunately, that history costs money, and that means you’re going to run into a lot of fakes.
I have stood in bustling markets from Gdansk to the Caribbean, watching tourists hand over significant sums for what is essentially expensive, orange-dyed plastic. It is heartbreaking because the deception is often so easy to spot if you just know a little bit of science. You don't always need a gemological laboratory to protect your wallet. Sometimes, all you need is a cup of water, some table salt, and a piece of wool.
Today, we are going to strip away the mystery. I am going to walk you through exactly how to distinguish the fossilized pine resin of kings from the Bakelite of mass production, using nothing but physics and chemistry you can perform on your kitchen counter.
WHAT IS REAL AMBER? UNDERSTANDING FOSSILIZED RESIN VS PLASTIC IMITATIONS
To catch a fake, you must first deeply understand the genuine article. Amber is not a stone in the traditional sense; it is an organic gem. It is fossilized tree resin—specifically from ancient conifers like Pinus succinifera—that has undergone a process of polymerization over millions of years. This process drives out the volatile oils and hardens the resin into a stable, durable material.
Real amber is warm to the touch. It is lightweight. It has a specific molecular structure that gives it unique physical properties, primarily regarding density and electrostatic charge.
The Imitators
Plastic, on the other hand, is the great pretender. Whether it is Bakelite, casein, polyester, or modern epoxy, plastic is manufactured to mimic the look of amber, but it rarely mimics the physics. These materials are often colder, heavier, and chemically distinct. When we test amber, we aren't testing its color or its sparkle; we are testing its density and its electrical conductivity.
Patricia’s Pro-Tip: Real amber is incredibly light. I often tell my clients that if you pick up a large chunky necklace and it feels "substantial" or heavy like glass, put it down immediately. A massive piece of real amber should feel surprisingly, almost suspiciously, lightweight in your hand.
WHY AMBER IS COMMONLY FAKED (AND WHICH PLASTICS ARE MOST USED)
The amber market is plagued by forgeries because the profit margins are staggering. A piece of colored epoxy costs pennies to produce but can be sold for hundreds of dollars if the buyer believes it is 40-million-year-old fossilized resin.
The counterfeiters have evolved over the decades. In the early 20th century, Bakelite and Casein were the primary culprits. Today, we see sophisticated polyesters and even "reconstituted" amber that blur the lines.
Below is a breakdown of the most common materials I encounter in my analysis work and how they generally compare to the real thing.
| Material | Origin | Specific Gravity (Density) | Tactile Feel | Common "Tell" |
| Natural Amber | Fossilized Resin (40m+ years) | 1.05 – 1.09 | Warm, smooth | Floats in salt water; aromatic when rubbed. |
| Copal | Immature Resin (<1m years) | 1.06 – 1.08 | Warm, slightly tacky | Becomes sticky with alcohol; melts easily. |
| Bakelite | Early Phenolic Plastic | 1.25 – 1.30 | Hard, heavier | Sinks in salt water; smells chemical when hot. |
| Glass | Silica | 2.20 – 2.60 | Cold, heavy | Sinks rapidly; hard and brittle. |
| Polyester/Epoxy | Modern Plastic | 1.20 – 1.30 | Slick, plastic-like | Sinks in salt water; smells acrid when burned. |
HOW THE SALT WATER TEST WORKS FOR AMBER IDENTIFICATION
This is the gold standard for home testing because it relies on Specific Gravity (SG). Specific gravity is a measure of density relative to water.
Pure water has a specific gravity of 1.0.
Natural amber has a specific gravity between 1.05 and 1.09.
Most plastics and glass have a specific gravity of 1.2 or higher.
Because amber is only slightly denser than pure water, it sinks in a fresh glass of tap water. However, if we increase the density of that water by dissolving salt into it, we can raise the water's SG to about 1.1 or 1.2.
The moment the water becomes denser than the object placed in it, the object floats. Since amber (1.05) is lighter than saturated salt water (~1.1+), it will bob to the surface. Since plastic (1.25+) is usually heavier than even the salt water, it will sink to the bottom. It is simple physics, and it is remarkably accurate for loose stones.
CORRECT SALT-TO-WATER RATIO FOR TESTING AMBER AT HOME
Many people fail this test because they are too stingy with the salt. To create a solution dense enough to float amber, you need to reach near-saturation. You cannot just sprinkle a teaspoon of salt into a bowl and hope for the best.
The Golden Ratio
You need approximately 1 part salt to 2 parts water by volume.
The Recipe
Step 1: The Water. Start with one cup (approx 250ml) of lukewarm water. Warm water helps the salt dissolve faster than cold water.
Step 2: The Salt. Add roughly half a cup (approx 125ml) of standard table salt. Do not worry about using fancy sea salt; cheap iodized table salt works perfectly.
Step 3: Dissolve. Stir vigorously until the salt is completely dissolved. If you see undissolved crystals settling at the bottom after minutes of stirring, that is actually a good sign—it means your water is fully saturated and cannot hold any more salt.
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE: PERFORMING THE AMBER SALT WATER FLOAT TEST
Now that you have your brine solution, let's perform the test. Note that this test works best on unmounted stones (beads or loose gems). If your amber is set in silver or gold, skip to the limitations section below.
Phase 1: Preparation
Clean your amber piece with mild soapy water to remove any oils or dirt that might affect buoyancy. Dry it thoroughly.
Phase 2: The Drop
Gently place the amber into your salt water solution. Do not throw it in; just release it gently below the surface or drop it from just above.
Phase 3: Observation
Watch immediately. Does it plummet like a stone? Does it hover in the middle? or does it buoyantly pop back up to the surface?
Phase 4: The Control Test (Optional but Recommended)
If you are unsure if your solution is correct, drop a known piece of plastic (like a button) into the water. It should sink. This confirms your water isn't so dense that everything floats.
SALT WATER TEST RESULTS EXPLAINED: REAL AMBER VS PLASTIC
Interpreting the results is usually binary, but let’s look at the nuance.
The Floaters (Likely Real)
If the object floats at the top of the water, it has a specific gravity lower than your brine. This is a strong indicator of Baltic Amber. However, it is important to note that Copal (immature resin) also shares this density and will also float. The salt water test confirms it is resin, but not necessarily ancient resin.
The Sinkers (Likely Fake)
If the object sinks to the bottom, it is denser than the brine. This captures almost all glass, Bakelite, celluloid, and modern plastic fakes. If it sinks, it is definitively not standard amber.
LIMITATIONS OF THE SALT WATER TEST (WHEN IT CAN GIVE FALSE RESULTS)
While I love the salt water test for its simplicity, it is not infallible. There are specific scenarios where this test will fail you, and relying on it blindly can lead to discarding a genuine piece or accepting a fake.
Jewelry Settings and Metal
This is the most common mistake. If your amber is set in a sterling silver ring or a heavy clasp, the weight of the metal will drag the amber down. A real amber ring will sink in salt water because the silver is far denser than the water. Do not use this test for set jewelry.
** drilled Beads with Air Bubbles**
Some plastic beads are hollow or contain large air bubbles introduced during manufacturing. These air pockets reduce the overall density of the plastic bead, potentially allowing a fake to float.
Copal Confusion
As mentioned, Copal is tree resin that hasn't finished fossilizing. It is "young" amber (usually a few thousand to a million years old). It has the same density as amber. It will pass the salt water test with flying colors, yet it is worth a fraction of the price of true amber.
THE STATIC ELECTRICITY TEST: WHY AMBER ATTRACTS SMALL PARTICLES
If you can't get your stone wet, or if it is set in metal, the static test is your next line of defense. The ancient Greeks actually called amber elektron because of this very property—it was the first material known to hold a static charge.
Amber is a powerful electrical insulator. When you apply friction to it, it hoards electrons on its surface, creating a negative static charge. This charge is strong enough to attract light objects. While some plastics can generate static, amber does it with exceptional efficiency and distinct characteristics.
HOW TO PERFORM THE AMBER STATIC TEST SAFELY AT HOME
This test is non-destructive and safe for almost all jewelry settings. You need a piece of natural fabric—wool or felt works best, though pure silk can also work. Synthetics generally don't create the right kind of friction for this specific test.
Step 1: Prepare Your "Target"
Tear up a few tiny pieces of paper or tissue. They should be minuscule, like confetti. Place them on a flat, dry table. Alternatively, you can use a few strands of your own hair.
Step 2: Charge the Stone
Take your amber and rub it vigorously against the wool or felt for 20 to 60 seconds. You need to generate some heat through friction. You are physically stripping electrons to build a charge.
Step 3: The Approach
Immediately hold the rubbed part of the amber just above the paper scraps or near your hair. Do not touch them; just hover about 1 centimeter away.
STATIC TEST RESULTS: DISTINGUISHING AMBER FROM PLASTIC AND COPAL
The Reaction of Real Amber
Genuine amber will exert a noticeable magnetic-like pull. The paper scraps should jump up and stick to the stone. If you are using hair, the strands should lift clearly toward the amber. The attraction is instant and strong.
The Reaction of Plastic
Most plastics will have a weak reaction or no reaction at all. While some plastics can hold a charge, they rarely hold it as intensely as amber after a simple wool rub. If the paper just sits there, or if you have to touch the paper to get it to stick, you are likely holding plastic or glass.
The Reaction of Glass
Glass is cool to the touch and will not generate a static charge easily with wool. It will have zero effect on the paper.
REAL AMBER VS COPAL: WHY STATIC TESTS CAN BE MISLEADING
Here is where the detective work gets tricky. Copal, being the younger sibling of amber, is chemically very similar. It will also become electrostatically charged and will attract paper.
The static test cannot differentiate between Amber (40 million years old) and Copal (10,000 years old). To distinguish these two, you often need to rely on a solvency test (acetone) or a hardness test, neither of which are purely "static" based. However, a subtle difference can sometimes be felt during the rubbing process.
Patricia’s Pro-Tip: When I rub Copal vigorously to build up a static charge, the surface often becomes slightly tacky or sticky because the heat from friction softens the immature resin. Real amber remains smooth and dry, no matter how hard you rub it.
COMMON MISTAKES WHEN TESTING AMBER WITH HOUSEHOLD METHODS
In my years of identifying gems, I see people make the same errors repeatedly. Avoid these pitfalls to ensure your results are valid.
Mistake 1: Using Carbonated Water
Some people think the bubbles help. They don't. They adhere to the surface of the object and act like life jackets, making heavy fakes float. Use flat tap water only.
Mistake 2: Surface Tension Deception
If you gently place a small plastic button on water, surface tension might hold it up. You must push the object under the water first to break surface tension, then see if it rises back up.
Mistake 3: Ignoring the Setting
I cannot stress this enough: testing a ring in salt water tells you nothing about the stone, only that silver sinks.
CAN TREATED OR PRESSED AMBER PASS THESE TESTS?
This is the gray area of the gem trade. "Ambroid" or pressed amber consists of small scraps of real amber fused together under high heat and pressure. Since it is chemically composed of real amber, it retains the same density and electrical properties.
The Test Results Matrix
Below is a guide to what will pass which test.
| Material Type | Salt Water Test | Static Test | UV Light Test (Blue Glow) | Acetone Test (Sticky?) |
| Natural Amber | Floats | Strong Pull | Usually Yes | No |
| Pressed Amber | Floats | Strong Pull | Varies (often patchy) | No |
| Copal | Floats | Strong Pull | Weak/White glow | Yes (Sticky) |
| Plastic | Sinks | Weak/None | No | Varies (Damage) |
| Glass | Sinks | None | No | No |
As you can see, pressed amber acts just like natural amber in our two main tests. To spot pressed amber, you usually need to look under a microscope for "flow lines" or elongated bubbles, rather than relying on salt or static.
ARE SALT WATER AND STATIC TESTS SAFE FOR JEWELRY AND BEADS?
Generally, yes, but with caveats.
Static Test Safety
The static test is 100% safe. Rubbing amber with wool will not damage it, although vigorous rubbing on Copal might dull the surface slightly.
Salt Water Safety
Salt is corrosive. If you test a necklace that is strung on silk or cotton thread, the brine can degrade the cord over time if not rinsed properly. If you test items with metal clasps or settings, the salt can accelerate tarnish or corrosion on lower-quality alloys.
The Golden Rule of Cleanup:
Always, always rinse your amber with fresh, clean water immediately after a salt water test and pat it dry with a soft cloth. Never leave salt residue on your jewelry.
WHEN AT-HOME AMBER TESTS AREN’T ENOUGH: PROFESSIONAL IDENTIFICATION METHODS
If you have a piece that passes the static test, floats in salt water, but still feels "off" to you, it might be a high-end fake or a very specific treatment. At this point, home science reaches its limit.
Professional gemologists use FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy). This machine analyzes the chemical signature of the material. Genuine Baltic amber has a specific "shoulder" in its infrared spectrum (the Baltic amber shoulder) that proves it contains succinic acid. No plastic, copal, or pressed amber can perfectly replicate this curve. If the piece is worth thousands, pay for the lab report.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT AMBER TESTING AND AUTHENTICITY
Can I use the hot needle test?
I strongly advise against it. The hot needle test involves sticking a red-hot needle into the stone. If it's real, it smells like pine; if it's fake, it smells like burning plastic. However, this test permanently damages your stone. It is destructive and unnecessary when salt and static work so well.
Does real amber glow under black light?
Yes, most legitimate Baltic amber will fluoresce a chalky blue or green under UV light. However, some treated ambers lose this ability, and some plastics now contain additives to mimic it, so it is not a standalone test.
Why is my amber sinking in salt water?
If you are absolutely certain the ratio is 1:2 salt to water, and the stone is not set in metal, and it sinks... it is likely plastic, glass, or a phenolic resin. Real amber simply cannot be denser than saturated brine.
Is pressed amber considered "fake"?
This is controversial. It is made of real material, but it is processed. It is generally considered "reconstituted" rather than natural. It is worth significantly less than a single natural stone, but it is not "fake" in the same way plastic is.
CONCLUSION
The world of amber is fascinating, but it is also a minefield for the uneducated buyer. By mastering the Salt Water Float Test and the Static Electricity Test, you are arming yourself with the same physics that gemologists use every day.
Remember the mantra: Real amber is light, it floats in brine, and it yearns to connect with electrons. If your "gem" is heavy, sinks like a rock, and refuses to pick up a scrap of paper, it belongs in the recycling bin, not your jewelry box.
Happy hunting, and may your finds always be fossilized.
